By December, the weather is getting colder and colder. What do we need most at this time?A: Down jacket, the essential warm clothing in winter, today we are going to talk about, why down down price is some cheap and some so expensive?
A high quality down jacket is a must for survival in winter.But with so many down jackets on the market, ranging from hundreds to tens of thousands, what’s the difference?Next, we will say, your price down jacket in the end where is the price!
1.Warm or not depends on the unkempt degree
The price of down on market what stall has, high to pass 10 thousand, low to dozens, how is huge difference come?Let’s have a look at the structure of the down jacket first: the down jacket is usually composed of fabric layer, eiderdown bile (stuffing material) layer and inner material layer.
These three layers of structure will affect the warmth of the down jacket.Today, we mainly analyze why there is such a huge gap through the effect of down on the warmth of down jackets.
Down is long in the goose, duck’s abdomen, into the reed flower – like down, flake called feathers.
As down is a kind of animal protein fiber, the ball fiber of down is densely covered with thousands of small stomata, which can shrink and expand with the change of air temperature and produce the function of regulating temperature, absorbing the hot air sent out by the human body and insulating the invasion of cold air from the outside.
According to the test of fluffiness, down feathers are a higher grade than silk, cotton and other thermal materials. For example, the lowest standard of 450 degree fluffiness of 90 duck fluffiness is better than silk and cotton fluffiness.
Therefore, pure down as a thermal insulation material, its economic value is far higher than other thermal insulation materials.
1. Down feather structure
The morphological structure of goose down and duck down was observed under a microscope, and the results showed that goose down had large flowers, small nuclei, long and thick branches, small and densely distributed branchlets, which could hold more still air, making goose down warmer than duck down.
The fluffiness of down directly determines the amount of still air that can be contained in the down jacket, thus affecting the warmth of the down jacket.The content and filling density of down affect the fluffiness of down.
The degree of fluffiness is the key index to reflect the quality of down. Feather products are mainly based on the fluffy effect of finished products, namely the degree of expansion.This dictates that down should ultimately be measured by volume rather than weight.
A piece of clothing filled with 80 grams of fluffy down, the effect is better than 100 grams of low down.The unit price of high mop down is higher than that of low mop down, but the consumption of high mop down is less and the total cost is about the same.
And with a good high degree of fluffy down made into finished products, customers feel a lot better touch, it is much easier to recommend.
The higher the fluidity, the better the down quality.Eiderdown products widely used in Japan is the height of the matte degree for the most important indicator of eiderdown.
Test method of discharge: the steam reduction method is used to verify the accuracy.The oven method used in GB/T 14272-2011 standard failed to test out the original buoyance of down.
At present the domestic eiderdown market price is very disorderly, what kind of price has, even if is the same standard has all sorts of different prices, some still exist very big difference.In general, down price is decided according to the quality, a cent a goods.
2.What is the content of down feather?
What does the content of down jacket that often sees when buying down jacket mean?Does the filling and the content mean the same thing?
1. What is a filler?
As the name implies, a down jacket is filled with, of course, down.Down refers to the part of the body closest to the poultry surface, the most warm, the most gentle part of the keratin fiber.
And down and subdivided into: white goose down, grey goose down, white duck down and grey duck down.
There are two differences between them:
First: color.White can be widely used in light-colored fabrics, opaque color, but for warmth and comfort, the difference in color does not have much impact.
Second, goose down and duck down.In fact, goose down is better for warmth and comfort than duck down, and can be more expensive than a eider-down jacket filled with duck down.
Goose down is better than duck down mainly because of the following reasons:
Larger down flowers: goose down has longer down hair, larger down flowers and higher fluidity. The higher the fluidity, the better the quality of down clothes.
Full velvet flower: generally, the growth period of geese is at least 100 days to maturity, while the duck is 40 days, so the velvet flower of geese is more full than the duck.
The rhombohedron of goose plush is evenly distributed with smaller rhombohedron, while the rhombohedron of duck plush is larger and concentrated at the end of the barb, so goose feather can produce a larger distance space, better fluidity, better warmth.
Better springback: the goose feather has better bending, finer and softer than the duck feather, better elasticity, more resilient.
No smell: The goose eats grass, while the duck is omnivorous, so the smell of goose down will be much less, and the treatment is basically no smell.
Age: Goose down lasts longer than duck down, up to 15 years, while duck down lasts only about 10 years.
To sum up, the order from the highest to the bottom in terms of quality and price is: white goose down & GT;Grey goose down & gt;White duck down & gt;Grey duck down.
The down jacket we wear is not actually filled with down, but with down and feathers in proportion to each other, which leads to an important concept: “down content”!
2. What is down feather content?
Down content refers to the percentage of down in a down jacket that accounts for all the stuffing.If a down jacket is 90% down, it makes up 90% of the stuffing and the remaining 10% is feathers.
Generally speaking, if the content of cashmere is less than 50%, it cannot be called “down jacket”. In the case of the same other conditions, the higher the content of cashmere is, the better the warmth is, and the higher the price is, of course.
Of course, what determines warmth and price is not only the content, but also the “filling volume”.
3. What is the charging amount?
The filling volume actually refers to the weight of all the down feathers filled by a down jacket, which is the weight of the “down” inside the down.It is different from the previous “cashmere content”, the former is a ratio value, the latter is a simple weight value.
It is the key factor to determine the quality and thermal performance of a down jacket under the same conditions (type, volume, filling, etc.). The higher the filling amount is, the better the thermal performance of the down jacket will be.
And the size of the amount of down jackets basically determines the use of a down jacket. In line with the principle of choosing according to needs, we divide the down jackets into 4 grades according to the thermal performance, of course, this is only a rough division of amateur.
1. Ultimate level (between -50° and -20°) :
Suitable for the south, North Pole, climb the snow mountain and other special limit uses, are basically connected style, usually for more than 800 loose., containing more than 300g of flannel.
2. Extreme cold grade (between -30° and -15°) :
Generally, it is a thick type of goose down filled with 650-750 volts, and the filling volume is about 200-300g.
General grade (between -20° and -5°) :
The most common grade is 600-700 voluminous grade goose down and 180-250g full down, which is also the grade of down jacket worn by many people in our daily life.
4.Mild cold grade (between -5° and 0°) :
It is usually made of goose down or duck down of 600+ volts, but with less filling.
4. What is unkempt?
The discharge is referred to as FP, generally divided into 550,600,700,800 and 900FP.However, a down jacket does not keep warm, so the degree of buoyancy can play a role.
Down due to its high density, fiber space has stored more air than other fibers, and the air is not heat conduction, the heat sent out by the figure can not run away, and then the thermal effect is a great.From the warmth, the higher the looseness, the better.Wear the down jacket of 600, 700 matte commonly however enough, the area of extreme cold can wear the down jacket of 800, 900 matte.
In terms of volume, we have to say something about The North Face.The down jacket in the north can be said to be the strongest in the field, and can even do 1000!
The North Face has been collaborating with Supreme over the years on down jackets.The North face itself is technically good, but the design is mediocre, and Supreme’s collaborations are stylish and wearable.
3.Whether light depends on the amount of cashmere
In fact, there is a myth that many people believe that the higher the down jacket is, the warmer it will be.In fact, the main warmth depends on the size of the matte, but the size of the matte is not high if there is not much warmth, must be very heavy, like a big quilt.
And when we choose down jacket daily, very important another requirement is to want light, namely fill velvet quantity does not need too high.After all, who wants to wrap themselves up as bears in the middle of winter?
Uniqlo’s short down jacket, for example, has a charge of around 30G.The Maxmara sub-line Sportmax has a 132G charge for its short down jacket.
So Uniqlo is a super light everyday style, Sportmax is more like the bread down jacket that has been around for years, it looks heavier and more suitable for people who are afraid of cold.
But if you want a down jacket to be light and warm, it depends on what’s inside.
The down jacket is mainly composed of duck down and goose down, and there are also gray and white in color.Generally speaking, white is more precious than gray because of its difficulty in quality control, but there is no great difference in warmth retention.
The larger size of the goose, the larger, more fluffy feathers, the down jacket can be made light and warm.And because geese are herbivores, goose down doesn’t taste like duck down.If you are sensitive to smell, choose goose down.
Moncler uses white goose down, and it is the best four goose down (down from the neck to the chest and abdomen). This part of the feather is very soft, has some waterproof effect, and has the best cold resistance.
The ever-daring Ezra Miller recently wore A Moncler/Valentino Pierpaolo down jacket for the red carpet. It’s warm and eye-catching, but it’s a-line and long, but it’s not bulky, it’s sculpted.
To sum up, if you want to keep warm and light, it is best to choose a feather down jacket with high volume but not high volume.
If the charging volume is high, above 300G, it is a professional down jacket suitable for the extreme cold area below -20C. It will be too heavy in daily life, but actually it is not necessary.
4. Whether down falls or not depends on the amount of down
Down content refers to the percentage of down in the total fill.If a down jacket is 90 percent down, that means down is 90 percent of the stuffing, and the remaining 10 percent is feathers.
And when it comes to down jackets, a heady problem is duvet, or shedding.Duvet duvets are difficult to completely avoid, but if they are high in cashmere, shedding problems can be reduced.
Because the hair that can drill out is not big down, but head and neck hair, immature hair, pointed feather root feather, fine feather and down, feather velvet, etc.High wool content, with good material is relatively not easy to drop hair.
Of course, it also involves the sewing of the inner fabric, the finer the stitching is, the less likely it is to let the hair fall out.Moose Knuckles, as we call the small scissors, used such advanced sewing technology that they could not drop 100% of the velvet!No wonder Olivia Palermo likes to wear clothes.
In short, expensive down jackets are always better when it comes to shedding, whether by material or sewing.
5.Whether it’s waterproof depends on the fabric
Knowing how much, how much and how loose it is, it’s no problem to find a warm down jacket.But some down jackets, in order to further enhance practicality, will also use waterproof fabrics, such a rainy day to forget to take an umbrella is not afraid.
For example, archaeopteryx, a famous outdoor brand, uses gore-tex, a rainproof and breathable fabric, on the outer layer of its down jacket.That way, outdoor enthusiasts can withstand the elements with their down jackets, whether in snow, ice or rain.
Bosideng, a Chinese down jacket, has also done well in terms of water resistance.Bosideng now also has gore-Tex down jackets, which are relatively cheap and cost effective.
In a word, the expensive down jacket from the start of stuffing, the best materials are selected, usually are more than 90% of the content, high fluffy white goose down.
Moncler is only used in Hungary or France farm to provide white goose down, the farm itself needs to pass layers of certification, so celebrities, fashion people love to wear.
The cost of the down jacket is mainly made up of fabrics and accessories (zippers, buttons, cuffs…).Composition of fur collar, processing fee, stuffing and down, etc. (excluding design and development expenses and site management expenses of manufacturer personnel).
Although some of the parity down jacket cost performance is good, but your price must have expensive reason, down jacket as a can wear for a long time classic piece of article, or invest a high quality better!