In apparel manufacturing, stitching is more than just construction—it’s a critical factor that affects garment durability, appearance, comfort, and even cost. Whether you’re producing activewear, tailored suits, kidswear, or denim, choosing the right stitch type can define your product’s success or failure.
Selecting the appropriate stitch type involves understanding your fabric, the garment’s function, aesthetics, and production method. At Shanghai Fumao, we advise global apparel brands—especially in the U.S. and Europe—on stitch engineering as part of their sampling and bulk orders.
This comprehensive guide will walk you through the key stitch types, their use cases, and how to evaluate them for different applications.
What Are the Most Common Stitch Types in Garment Manufacturing?
Stitch types aren’t just functional—they’re aesthetic and structural decisions that reflect your product’s quality. Yet many brand owners overlook this and leave it entirely to the factory’s default method.
Familiarizing yourself with the most common stitch types ensures your garment meets its design and performance intent.
What Are the Features of Lockstitch vs Chainstitch?
| Stitch Type | Appearance | Strength | Use Case |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lockstitch | Clean, flat | Very strong | Shirts, trousers, dresses |
| Chainstitch | Slightly elastic | Moderate | Denim seams, decorative topstitching |
Lockstitch is the standard stitch used in most woven garments. It uses two threads and produces a tight, non-elastic seam. Chainstitch is a single-thread looped stitch, ideal for decorative seams and durable hems on heavy garments.
You can view detailed illustrations of both on Sewguide or Threads Magazine stitch guide.
When Should You Use Overlock, Flatlock, and Coverstitch?
These three stitch types are essential in knitwear and performance wear:
- Overlock (serger): Neatly finishes raw edges and prevents fraying
- Flatlock: Creates a flat seam with minimal bulk—ideal for athleticwear
- Coverstitch: Often seen on hems of T-shirts and leggings for flexibility
For high-stretch fabrics, flatlock provides both comfort and strength. Compare machine types at Brother Industrial or Juki stitch machines.
Each stitch requires specific equipment—so verify with your manufacturer if your desired finish is available.
How Does Fabric Type Influence Stitch Selection?
Different fabrics react uniquely to stitching tension, thread type, and machine speed. A poorly matched stitch can lead to puckering, seam failure, or uncomfortable fit.
Stitch type must be chosen based on the stretch, weight, and structure of your fabric.
What Stitch Works Best for Stretch Fabrics Like Jersey and Lycra?
Stretchy fabrics need stretch-compatible seams. Standard lockstitch can break when pulled.
Best choices:
- Overlock with woolly nylon thread for side seams
- Flatlock for minimal chafing in sportswear
- Coverstitch for hems with high recovery
Many of our activewear clients also request seam reinforcement tape to prevent blowouts. You can read more about stretch seam design at Stretchseams.com or explore A&E’s thread catalog.
Which Stitches Suit Heavyweight Fabrics Like Denim or Canvas?
For thick or multi-layered fabrics, your stitch must penetrate evenly without skipped threads.
Ideal stitch types:
- Chainstitch for back yokes and waistbands
- Double-needle lockstitch for topstitching
- Bar tacks for reinforcement at stress points
Fumao uses custom needle configurations and industrial stitch tests to handle heavyweight fabrics. You can check stitch stress testing standards on ASTM D1683 or explore machinery setups on Consew.
How Do Stitch Types Affect Garment Function and Comfort?
Every stitch touches the skin. Especially in kidswear, underwear, and sportswear, poor stitching choices lead to customer returns and bad reviews.
Selecting stitches based on wearability and end-use application increases long-term satisfaction and reduces defect rates.
How Do You Choose Seams for Maximum Skin Comfort?
Unfinished seams or dense thread clusters can cause irritation. For skin-contact garments, opt for:
- Flatlock seams to reduce friction
- 4-thread overlock for balance between durability and comfort
- Soft polyester or spun threads rather than coarse filaments
You’ll find helpful seam evaluation methods on OEKO-TEX guidelines and Under Armour’s tech blogs.
At Fumao, we use double-pass inspections to test seam tolerances and abrasion levels.
How Does Stitch Type Impact Garment Performance?
Beyond comfort, stitch type also influences:
- Garment lifespan under repeated stress
- Elasticity and recovery
- Resistance to washing and heat
For high-movement zones (shoulders, crotch, waist), we recommend elasticized seams with reinforced thread paths.
Studies like Textile Today’s stitch fatigue analysis and SGS durability guides highlight the ROI of investing in appropriate stitching.
What Are the Cost and Production Impacts of Stitch Choices?
Choosing a stitch type isn't just a design decision—it directly affects unit cost, lead time, and defect rate. Some stitches require more time, special machines, and higher-skill operators.
Balancing design intent with operational feasibility leads to more profitable production.
Which Stitch Types Increase Labor and Machine Costs?
More complex stitches require:
- Specialized machinery (e.g., flatlock, bar tacker)
- Operator retraining
- Slower seam speed due to precision
For example, flatlock machines cost more and are slower than overlock. You’ll also need extra QA checks for symmetry.
Factories often charge a per operation upcharge for decorative or technical stitching. You can estimate stitch costs with calculators on SewingMachinesPlus or consult cost-per-unit breakdowns on Sewport.
How Do You Optimize Stitch Choices Without Compromising Quality?
At Fumao, we work with clients to reduce stitch cost without losing function. Here’s how:
- Use mock coverstitch instead of true coverstitch for casualwear
- Combine lockstitch with bar tacks instead of full chainstitch
- Choose 2-thread overlock where 3-thread isn't required
We also use production simulation tools like Lectra to help clients model stitch-time-to-cost in sample development.
Conclusion
Choosing the right stitch type is essential to garment quality, cost, comfort, and brand reputation. From fiber compatibility to machine access and customer expectations, every decision counts. Don’t let stitching be an afterthought—it’s your brand’s invisible backbone.
At Shanghai Fumao, we provide comprehensive stitch consultation as part of our full-package apparel services. Whether you're designing performancewear, kidswear, or fashion basics, we’ll help you choose the right construction from the start.
📩 Contact our Business Director Elaine at elaine@fumaoclothing.com to begin your next production run with confidence and craftsmanship.
