As a garment factory owner, I see many tech packs from US brands. Some packs are very detailed. Other packs miss a key part: the grading rules. This often causes problems in production. Brands then ask me why their samples do not fit well across all sizes. The answer usually lies in the grading.
A complete tech pack is your blueprint for success. It turns your design idea into a physical product you can sell. Grading information is a critical section of this blueprint. It gives the factory the precise instructions needed to scale your base size pattern into a full range of sizes. This ensures consistency, fit, and quality from an XS to an XL, protecting your brand's reputation and saving you from costly remakes.
Without clear grading, you are essentially asking the factory to guess how your garment should grow or shrink for different body types. This leads to inconsistent fits, failed fit sessions, and delayed launches. Let's explore why this section of the tech pack is non-negotiable for a smooth manufacturing process.
What is grading in garment manufacturing?
Grading is the process of creating different sizes from a base pattern. It is a technical step. It is not just making a pattern bigger or smaller. It involves increasing or decreasing key measurements at specific points. This creates a full range of sizes that are proportional to your original design.
Grading ensures that your design's fit and style are maintained across all sizes. It is the science behind achieving a consistent brand fit, whether a customer buys a small or an extra-large. This is crucial for building customer loyalty and reducing returns due to poor fit.
How does the grading process work?
The process starts with your base size, often called the sample size. A technical designer or a specialized grader then uses a set of rules. These rules are the grade rules. They dictate how much each measurement point (like chest, waist, and hip) should change for each size up or down. For example, the chest measurement might increase by 2 inches from a Medium to a Large, but the sleeve length might only increase by 1 inch. These changes are not uniform. They are based on standardized body measurements, which can be found in resources provided by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). We use these standards as a starting point for all our clients.
What are the key components of a grade rule table?
A grade rule table is a chart that specifies the exact measurements for every point in every size. It is the heart of the grading instructions in your tech pack. Here is a simplified example for a basic t-shirt:
| Measurement Point | Size S (in) | Size M (in) | Size L (in) | Grade Rule (in) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chest Circumference | 40 | 42 | 44 | +2 |
| Body Length | 28 | 29 | 30 | +1 |
| Sleeve Length | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | +0.5 |
This table shows how each measurement changes from one size to the next. A complete tech pack will have a much more detailed table, including armholes, necklines, and more. Providing this table to your factory is essential for accurate pattern making.
Why is accurate grading crucial for production?
Accurate grading is the difference between a successful product line and one plagued with fit issues. It directly impacts your cost, timeline, and brand image. When grading is wrong, every single garment in production will be wrong.
Correct grading guarantees size consistency. This means every Large shirt we produce for you will have the exact same measurements. Your customers can trust your brand's sizing, which leads to higher satisfaction and fewer returns. Inconsistent sizing is a major reason for online apparel returns.
How does poor grading increase costs?
Poor grading leads to massive hidden costs. Last year, a startup brand sent us a tech pack without grading information. We asked for it, but they insisted their designer had "sized it proportionally." When the first bulk production samples arrived, the fit was completely off. The Large size was too tight in the chest, and the Small was too long. The entire production run had to be put on hold. We had to create new patterns from scratch, which cost the brand over $5,000 in additional fees and delayed their launch by six weeks, causing them to miss their key selling season.
What is the link between grading and quality control?
Grading sets the standard for quality control (QC). Our QC team uses the measurements from the grade rule table to check random garments from production. If a shirt's chest measurement does not match the spec for its size, it fails inspection. Without these precise numbers, QC becomes subjective. We cannot ensure that every piece you receive meets your exact size requirements. This is a core part of our quality assurance process.
How does grading information benefit your brand?
Providing clear grading is not just a technical requirement; it is a smart business strategy. It protects your investment and builds a stronger brand.
Clear grading rules make communication with your manufacturer efficient and precise. It removes the guesswork and prevents misunderstandings. This leads to a smoother production process, faster turnaround times, and a final product that truly reflects your vision.
How does grading improve the sampling process?
With proper grading, the prototyping and sampling process is much faster. We can create patterns for all sizes accurately from the start. This means you can review fit on multiple sizes in the first proto sample round. A sportswear brand from Colorado we work with now always includes full grading specs. Because of this, we consistently achieve approval in just two sampling rounds, saving them weeks of development time.
How does grading build customer trust?
When customers have a positive fit experience, they come back. They learn that a size Medium in your brand always fits them perfectly. This trust builds loyalty. It also reduces the operational cost and brand damage associated with high return rates. Consistent sizing, enabled by accurate grading, is a powerful competitive advantage in the crowded fashion market.
What should you include in your tech pack's grading section?
A well-prepared grading section leaves no room for interpretation. It gives your manufacturer everything needed to execute your vision perfectly.
Your tech pack's grading section must contain a complete grade rule table and clear points of measurement (POM) diagrams. This combination of numbers and visuals provides an unambiguous guide for our pattern makers and quality control teams.
What are the essential elements of a grade rule table?
A comprehensive grade rule table should list every critical measurement for your garment. This includes:
- Horizontal Measurements: Chest/Bust, Waist, Hip, Hem.
- Vertical Measurements: Front Length, Back Length, Sleeve Length.
- Other Key Areas: Neckline width and depth, Armhole circumference, Cuff openings.
The table must specify the measurements for your base size (e.g., Medium) and the incremental change (the grade rule) for each size up and down.
Why are points of measurement (POM) diagrams vital?
A POM diagram is a technical flat sketch of your garment with numbered arrows pointing to where each measurement should be taken. These diagrams work together with the grade rule table. They ensure that both you and the factory are measuring the garment in the exact same way. For instance, "Body Length" could be measured from the high point shoulder or from the center back neck. The POM diagram eliminates this confusion. You can find guidelines for creating these in the AAFA Apparel Industry Handbook.
Conclusion
Grading information is far more than just a technical detail in your tech pack. It is the foundation for producing a consistent, high-quality, and profitable apparel line. It directly prevents costly errors, delays, and damage to your brand's reputation. By investing time in creating precise grading rules, you empower your manufacturing partner to deliver exactly what you need.
A complete tech pack with detailed grading is your first and most important step toward a successful production run. It transforms your partnership with your manufacturer from a potential source of problems into a seamless extension of your own team. If you are looking for a manufacturing partner who pays meticulous attention to these details to ensure your brand's success, let's talk.
We at Fumao Clothing are experts in translating detailed tech packs into flawless garments. We understand the critical role of grading and will work with you to ensure your sizing is perfect. To discuss manufacturing your next clothing order with precision and reliability, please contact our Business Director, Elaine, at elaine@fumaoclothing.com.
