I have received thousands of tech packs over my career. Some are works of art. They are clear, complete, and make my job easy. Others are a single sketch on a napkin with a few scribbled notes. These make my job nearly impossible. I have to guess at measurements. I have to interpret vague instructions. I have to ask endless questions. Every question costs time, and time is money.
I remember a client from Miami who sent me a tech pack that was just a photo of a garment he liked, cut from a magazine, with "make it like this" written on it. That was it. No measurements. No fabric specifications. No construction details. We spent weeks going back and forth, trying to figure out what he actually wanted. By the time we got it right, his selling season was half over.
A perfect tech pack is the single most important document you will ever create for your manufacturing partner. It is the complete instruction manual for your garment. It includes technical flats with measurements, a detailed bill of materials, construction specifications, grading rules, and labeling instructions. When done right, it eliminates guesswork, reduces sampling rounds, prevents costly mistakes, and ensures that the garment you receive matches the one in your imagination. A perfect tech pack is the foundation of a successful manufacturing partnership.
Let me walk you through exactly what belongs in a tech pack that makes factories love working with you.
What technical drawings and measurements must be in every tech pack?
I have a client in Seattle who sends us the most beautiful tech packs I have ever seen. Her technical flats are computer-generated, clean, and perfectly proportioned. Every measurement is clearly marked. Front view, back view, and detail views of complex areas like pockets or collars. When we get her tech pack, we can start working immediately. No questions. No delays. She gets samples faster than almost anyone.
Another client from Chicago sends us hand-drawn sketches. They are charming, but they are not accurate. Proportions are off. Measurements are sometimes missing. We have to interpret what she meant. This leads to samples that are wrong, which leads to revisions, which leads to delays. Her passion for design is clear, but her lack of technical precision costs her time and money.
The technical drawings in your tech pack must be accurate and complete. They should include a front view and a back view of the garment, drawn to scale. All key measurements should be clearly indicated with lines and numbers: full chest, waist, hip, shoulder width, sleeve length, sleeve opening, neck drop, garment length, and any other dimensions specific to your design. Include close-up views of complex details like pockets, pleats, or unique stitching. The goal is to leave nothing to interpretation. The pattern maker should be able to create the first pattern from your drawings alone, without asking a single question.
The Seattle client uses professional pattern-making software. She learned that technical flat sketching tools are worth the investment. Her tech packs are consistent, accurate, and easy for us to read. She includes a measurement chart with minimum and maximum tolerances. She specifies exactly where each measurement is taken. Her samples are right the first time, 90% of the time. That is efficiency we both benefit from.
What is the difference between a fashion sketch and a technical flat?
A fashion sketch is artistic. It shows how the garment looks on a body, with folds and movement. A technical flat is architectural. It shows the garment flat, like a blueprint, with clean lines and no distortion. Your tech pack needs technical flats. Fashion sketches are inspirational, but they are not instructions. Include both if you want, but the technical flats are what we build from.
How detailed should the measurement chart be?
Very detailed. Include every point where the garment is measured. Specify if measurements are taken on the half or full circumference. Include tolerances for each measurement, typically plus or minus 0.5 cm for standard garments. Include graded measurements for all sizes if you have them. The more detail, the fewer surprises.
What information belongs in the bill of materials?
I had a client from Denver who designed a beautiful jacket. The tech pack had great sketches. The measurements were clear. But the bill of materials was almost empty. It just said "fabric, buttons, zipper." When we started production, we discovered that the fabric he wanted was out of stock. The buttons he imagined were not specified. The zipper length was unclear. We had to stop production and wait for answers.
He was frustrated. We were frustrated. The delay cost him weeks. All because he did not document his materials properly. A simple BOM would have prevented this.
The bill of materials is your complete shopping list for every garment. It lists every single component that goes into the product: the main fabric with fiber content, weight, and construction; the lining fabric if any; thread with color and type; buttons with size, material, and color; zippers with length, type, and color; labels with content and placement; hangtags; and any other trim. For each item, include the supplier if known, the color reference, and any special instructions. A complete BOM ensures we source everything correctly before production starts, avoiding last-minute substitutions and delays.
The Denver client learned his lesson. He now creates a detailed BOM for every style. He includes fabric swatches when possible. He specifies exact color codes from Pantone or from the mill. He lists alternative suppliers in case the primary is unavailable. His production now flows smoothly because we know exactly what to order. We always recommend using a comprehensive BOM template to ensure nothing is missed.
What are the most commonly missed items in a BOM?
Thread is often forgotten. It seems minor, but the wrong thread can ruin a garment. Care labels and content labels are frequently missed. Hangtags and their attachment method are sometimes an afterthought. Even the poly bag for shipping can be forgotten. Think through every piece of the garment and its packaging. List it all.
How do you handle materials that are hard to source?
Include that information in the BOM. Note if a fabric is from a specific mill with a long lead time. Note if a button is custom and requires its own sampling. This alerts us to potential delays early. We can then plan accordingly or suggest alternatives if needed.
How should you specify construction details and stitching?
I have a client in New York who is obsessed with quality. His garments are beautifully made, and his customers pay premium prices for them. His tech packs include detailed construction specifications. He tells us exactly what stitch type to use on every seam. He specifies how many stitches per inch. He shows diagrams of how pockets should be attached and how facings should be finished.
Another client from Texas just writes "sew it well." That is not a specification. "Well" means different things to different people. His garments come back with inconsistent quality. Some seams are strong. Some are loose. He is always disappointed, but he never specifies what he actually wants.
Construction details are where your quality standards come to life. Your tech pack should specify seam types for each part of the garment: which seams are overlocked, which are flat-felled, which are topstitched. Specify stitch density, typically 8 to 12 stitches per inch for most garments. Include diagrams of complex constructions like pocket attachment or zipper insertion. Specify seam finishes: pinked, overlocked, bound, or left raw. The more detail you provide, the more consistent your quality will be across production runs and across different factories.
The New York client includes photos of reference garments when helpful. He sometimes sends us a sample of a competitor's garment with notes about what he likes and dislikes. This level of detail makes our job easy. We know exactly what he expects. His quality is consistent order after order. Understanding garment construction standards helps him communicate his requirements clearly.
How do you specify stitch type without being a sewing expert?
You do not need to know the technical names. You can describe what you want. "I want the seams to be finished so no raw edges show inside." Or "I want a visible topstitch 1/8 inch from the edge." Better yet, ask your factory for a stitch type guide. We can provide samples of different seam finishes. You choose what you want, and we document it.
What construction details are most important to specify?
Focus on areas that affect durability and appearance. Seam finishes prevent fraying. Topstitching affects how seams lay. Pocket attachment affects function. Zipper installation affects ease of use. Button reinforcement prevents buttons falling off. These details separate quality garments from cheap ones.
What labeling and packaging instructions prevent costly mistakes?
I remember a client from Florida who ordered a large quantity of t-shirts. The shirts were perfect. The quality was excellent. But when they arrived, the care labels were wrong. They said "Made in Vietnam" instead of "Made in China." The client had to have all the labels cut out and new ones sewn in. It cost him thousands of dollars and weeks of delay. All because he did not specify the label content clearly in his tech pack.
Another client from Boston always includes a labeling diagram in his tech pack. He shows exactly where each label goes. He provides the text for the care label. He specifies the material and size of the brand label. His shipments arrive ready to sell, every time.
Labeling and packaging instructions are often an afterthought, but they are critical. Your tech pack should include a diagram showing the placement of every label: main brand label, size label, care label, and any flags or patches. Specify the content of each label, including fiber composition and care instructions. Include artwork for custom hangtags and specify how they should be attached. Specify packaging: poly bag type, size, and whether garments should be folded or hung. Clear instructions here prevent the kind of mistakes that make your products unsellable.
The Boston client's garments always arrive ready for sale. The labels are correct. The hangtags are attached. The poly bags are as specified. He can ship directly to his customers without touching a single garment. This efficiency is built on clear labeling and packaging specifications in his tech pack.
What are the most common labeling mistakes?
Wrong fiber content is common. Saying 100% cotton when the garment is a blend can get you in trouble with regulators. Wrong country of origin is another frequent error. Missing care instructions or using the wrong language for the destination market also causes problems. Always double-check your label text.
How detailed should packaging instructions be?
Very detailed. Specify the type of poly bag: thickness, opening style, and whether it should have a header. Specify if garments should be folded in a certain way, maybe with tissue paper. Specify how many garments per carton and how cartons should be labeled. The more detail, the less room for error.
Conclusion
A perfect tech pack is the difference between a smooth manufacturing process and a nightmare of delays and mistakes. It includes accurate technical flats with complete measurements, leaving nothing to interpretation. It contains a detailed bill of materials listing every component needed to make your garment. It specifies construction details and stitching, defining your quality standards clearly. And it provides complete labeling and packaging instructions, ensuring your products arrive ready to sell.
At Shanghai Fumao, we love working with brands who provide great tech packs. They make our job easier, and they get better results faster. We are happy to review your tech packs and suggest improvements. We can even help you build them if you are new to the process. Our goal is to set you up for success from the very first sample.
If you are ready to create tech packs that factories will love, or if you need help improving your existing ones, I invite you to reach out. Let us discuss how we can streamline your development process. Contact our Business Director, Elaine, directly at elaine@fumaoclothing.com. Tell her about your project, and let us build a perfect tech pack together.
