You have a sample. It looks good. You are ready to approve it. You say "yes." The factory starts production. Then the bulk arrives. The color is off. The fit is different. The pockets are in the wrong place. You are angry. The factory says, "You approved the sample." You say, "But I didn't check those things." I have seen this happen many times. Approval is a legal and quality milestone. You must ask the right questions before you say "yes."
Based on our experience producing millions of garments, the questions you ask before sample approval should cover fabric, measurements, construction, trims, and fit. For example, last year we worked with a brand from New York. They approved a sample without asking about the fabric lot. The bulk fabric came from a different lot. The color was different. The brand had to accept it. Now they ask: "Is this the production fabric lot?" That simple question saved them from future mistakes.
So, what questions should you ask before sample approval? Let me break it down. I will give you a checklist of questions for each category. I will explain why each question matters. And I will show you what answers to expect from a reliable factory.
Questions About Fabric and Materials?
Fabric is the foundation. I remember a client from Chicago. They approved a sample. They did not ask about the fabric lot. The bulk fabric was from a different batch. The color was off.
Before you approve, ask: "Is this the production fabric? What is the lot number?" For the Chicago client, we now record the lot number. For woven shirts, ask: "Is the fabric weight the same as the bulk?" For knits, ask: "Is the stretch percentage the same?" For denim, ask: "Is this the production wash?" Also ask: "Have you tested the fabric for shrinkage? What is the shrinkage percentage?" A good factory will provide test reports. If they cannot answer these questions, do not approve. You are approving a sample that may not represent the bulk.
At Shanghai Fumao, we attach a fabric swatch and lot number to every approval form.
What Fabric Questions Should You Ask?
- Is this the production fabric lot?
- What is the fabric weight (GSM)?
- What is the shrinkage percentage?
- Has the fabric been tested for colorfastness?
- Can you provide a test report?
For a sportswear client, they asked these questions. The factory provided the lot number. The bulk matched.
Why Is the Fabric Lot Number Important?
The lot number traces the fabric to a specific production run. If the bulk fabric has a different lot number, the color or weight may be different. For a denim client, the lot number was recorded. The bulk matched.
Questions About Measurements and Specs?
Measurements are not guesses. I remember a client from Boston. They approved a sample. They did not measure it. The bulk had a 1-inch variation in the chest.
Before you approve, measure the sample against your spec sheet. For the Boston client, we now measure every sample. Ask: "Do the measurements match the spec sheet? What are the tolerances?" For woven shirts, measure the chest, shoulder, sleeve length, and body length. For knits, measure the chest and body length. For denim, measure the waist, rise, and inseam. Also ask: "Have you graded the pattern for all sizes? Can I see a size set sample?" If the measurements are off by more than the tolerance, do not approve. Ask for a corrected sample.
At Shanghai Fumao, we provide a measurement report with every sample.
What Measurement Questions Should You Ask?
- Do the measurements match the spec sheet?
- What are the tolerances (±0.5 inches, etc.)?
- Have you graded the pattern for all sizes?
- Can I see a size set sample (XS, M, XL)?
- Can you provide a measurement report?
For a sportswear client, they measured the sample. It matched the spec sheet. They approved.
What Are Realistic Tolerances?
- Woven garments: ±0.5 inches
- Knit garments: ±0.75 inches
- Denim: ±0.5 inches
For a denim client, the sample was within tolerance. They approved.
Questions About Construction and Stitching?
Construction is the backbone. I remember a client from Seattle. They approved a sample. They did not check the inside seams. The bulk had raw, fraying edges.
Before you approve, check the construction. For the Seattle client, we now inspect every seam. Ask: "Is this the same construction method that will be used in bulk?" For woven shirts, check the collar attachment, placket, and cuff seams. For knits, check the neckband and hem. For denim, check the topstitching and rivet attachment. Also ask: "Are the seam finishes the same? Are the stitch lengths consistent?" A good factory will use the same machines and operators for the pre-production sample as for bulk. If the sample is made by a specialist in a sample room, the bulk will be different.
At Shanghai Fumao, we make pre-production samples on the production line.
What Construction Questions Should You Ask?
- Is this the same construction method for bulk?
- Are the seam finishes the same?
- Is the stitch length consistent?
- Was this sample made on the production line?
- Can I see a production line sample?
For a sportswear client, they asked these questions. The sample was made on the production line. The bulk matched.
How Do You Check Stitch Quality?
Check for:
- Straight stitching (no wandering)
- Even stitch length
- No puckering
- No skipped stitches
For a denim client, the topstitching was straight and even. They approved.
Questions About Trims and Hardware?
Trims are the finishing touch. I remember a client from Denver. They approved a sample. They did not check the zipper. The bulk had a cheap zipper that broke.
Before you approve, check the trims. For the Denver client, we now check every trim. Ask: "Are these the production trims? Can I see the trim card?" For woven shirts, check the buttons, buttonholes, and labels. For knits, check the zipper and drawcords. For denim, check the rivets and buttons. Also ask: "Have you tested the zipper strength? Have you tested the button pull strength?" A good factory will provide test reports. If the trims on the sample are different from the trim card, do not approve. At Shanghai Fumao, we provide a trim card with every sample.
What Trim Questions Should You Ask?
- Are these the production trims?
- Can I see the trim card?
- Have you tested the zipper strength?
- Have you tested the button pull strength?
- Are the labels correctly placed?
For a sportswear client, they checked the trim card. The trims matched. They approved.
What Is a Trim Card?
A trim card is a board with samples of all trims: zipper, buttons, labels, thread, elastic. It is the standard for bulk production. For a denim client, the trim card included the rivets and the leather patch.
Conclusion
Before you approve a sample, ask questions about fabric, measurements, construction, trims, fit, and documentation. Is this the production fabric lot? Do the measurements match the spec sheet? Is the construction the same as bulk? Are the trims approved? Does the fit feel right? Will you provide a signed approval form? These questions protect you. They ensure that the bulk matches the sample.
At Shanghai Fumao, we answer all these questions. We provide documentation. We keep reference samples. We want you to approve with confidence.
Let us approve your sample. Contact our Business Director, Elaine, directly at elaine@fumaoclothing.com. Send us your questions. We will answer them. Then you can approve.
